In 2013, I was sitting in Estrela Park in Lisbon, on day three without caffeine. My eyes felt wrong. My head felt wrong. An older woman I used to see most mornings walked past, stopped, and looked at me.

"Estás bem, querido?" Are you okay, dear?

I was not. But I was already on the other side of the decision.

I had not planned to quit. It happened by accident. A few days without coffee turned into a week, the week turned into the rest of my life. I never went back to caffeine. I never stopped drinking coffee.

For years, decaf was the compromise nobody wanted. Burnt, flat, apologetic. That has changed. Roasters are taking it seriously now. The beans are better. The process is better. You can sit down in a good café and order a decaf without lowering your voice.


I am not here to convert anyone. If you love coffee and caffeine works for you, that is a complete sentence. Keep going.

But there is a quieter version of the question worth asking. Do you drink coffee, or does coffee run the day? If the answer ever tilts, it is worth stepping away for a stretch. A flight. A weekend. A month. Not as a cleanse. As a test.

What I learned, sitting in that park with a woman I barely knew asking if I was alright, is that the part of coffee I love is not the caffeine. It is the morning. The walk to the place that knows my order. The person behind the bar. The cup in the hand. The pause before the day starts.

That part stays. None of it depends on the stimulant.


Decaf is not the point of this piece. The point is that the culture is bigger than the chemical. If you ever feel like the chemical is the only thing holding you to the culture, that is the moment to find out.

The coffee stays. That is the good news.